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Travel to The Seychelles Series Part 2: Mahe, Seychelles
Setting the Scene FOR MAHE, SEYCHELLES
Continuing from part one of our Seychelles series, Mahe Island, the largest and most vibrant island in the Seychelles, invites you to explore its rich culture, stunning beaches, and lush trails. As the gateway to the Seychelles, Mahe is more than a starting point—it’s a mood-setter for your entire island escape. From bustling local life to serene natural beauty, this island sets the tone for what the archipelago has to offer. Here’s how we made the most of our time on Mahe.
Where We Stayed
Blue Hill Guest House, Mahe, Seychelles
Our base on Mahe was Blue Hill Guest House, a charming boutique guesthouse-type hotel tucked high above San Succi Road, Victoria. We loved this accommodation for its incredible panoramic views of Victoria, especially at sunset. The property felt secluded and peaceful, with a large, inviting pool and plenty of photogenic nooks perfect for capturing the surrounding beauty. The room was spacious and well-appointed, providing a comfortable retreat after long days of exploring.
The staff were lovely and attentive, though one quirky challenge stood out: an overly friendly cat that wouldn’t leave us alone. While some guests might find the roaming cats delightful, for people like Nadia, who isn’t a cat person, this was less enchanting. Everyone’s different and that’s okay. Let’s just say, we’re dog people!
We stayed here for two nights before moving along to Praslin. Blue Hill’s hilltop location meant it was tucked away from the city’s noise, which many travelers will adore. However, this seclusion also presented challenges. Despite being marked as in Victoria on maps, it was far from the town center on foot. The steep, winding, and narrow roads made walking impractical, and we wouldn’t describe it as a pleasant stroll.
Without a rental car for our first few days on Mahe, we relied on taxis to get up and down the hill. This added to our transport costs and made it difficult to access restaurants and shops, especially when the hotel’s restaurant closed at 9 pm. While we appreciated the tranquility and the breathtaking views, the distance from town was a drawback we hadn’t fully anticipated.
Jamelah Beach Guesthouse, Mahe Seychelles
On our return to Mahe, we stayed at Jamelah Beach Guesthouse, a cozy and homey accommodation located on the beach. This family-friendly hotel offered both self-catering apartments and deluxe rooms. Our room was spacious, clean, and featured beautiful beach views. The location was perfect, with local shops, cafes, and pharmacies within walking distance. Situated near the airport, it was an ideal spot for our last two nights in the Seychelles.
While breakfast was included, it left room for improvement, consisting of toast, basic fruit, coffee or tea, and 1 glass of fruit juice. We managed to snap a photo of breakfast—one of the few pictures we took here. When we arrived at the hotel, Nadia was completely out of it after a traumatizing ferry ride. We went straight into recovery mode, sleeping off the exhaustion so she could explore the next day.
During our short stay, we noticed many families with kids, which makes us think it’s a popular choice for family vacations. The beachfront location was convenient, though the beach itself wasn’t the most impressive the Seychelles had to offer.
Despite that, the hotel’s overall atmosphere, cleanliness, and friendly staff made our stay enjoyable. We especially loved the resident dog, who adored attention—a highlight for us as devoted dog people! Jamelah Beach Guesthouse offered value for money, a rare find during our Seychelles trip, and we’d likely choose it over a mega resort for its charm and accessibility.
Highlights of Mahe
Victoria Site-Seeing
Victoria, the smallest capital in the world, is small but buzzing with life. It felt wildly busy, yet like many places we’ve traveled, the city center was alive with locals, tourists, and a flurry of activities. We took a taxi from our hotel to the center of Victoria and let our feet do the exploring from there.
Skipping tours, we spent about three hours strolling through the streets, soaking in the warm sun and vibrant culture. A local band played cheerful tunes at a café, while streets were lined with colorful market stalls, buzzing cafes, and lively bars. For South Africans, here’s a fun twist—we spotted a “Pick n Pay”! Not quite the kind we’re familiar with, though. We also came across a Spar, where we spent about R100 on just three beverages: two Coca-Colas and one water—a quick reminder that the Seychelles is not exactly a budget-friendly destination.
If you’re not one for soaking up the culture of a new place, you might want to give Victoria a pass and head straight to the beach. But if you’re the kind of traveler who loves wandering local streets, stepping into quaint shops, feeling the vibe of a new place, and exploring markets even if you’re not buying anything, then the Victoria City Centre is well worth a few hours of your time.
Victoria is more than its iconic clock tower or peaceful botanical gardens; it’s a place where the charm lies in walking its streets, soaking in its rhythm, and savoring the little moments.
Beaches of Mahe, Seychelles
Beau Vallon Beach: The Best for Swimming and Fun
Although this beach initially looked like a manicured version of Milnerton Beach (hehe – for the Capetonians), it ended up being our favourite beach day on the entire trip. This beach has an expansive stretch of white sand, with calm, turquoise waters (admittedly not as turquoise as the other beaches in the Seychelles). The beach has a lively atmosphere, with nearby food stalls serving a diversity of local and street food at reasonable prices. Watersport enthusiasts can enjoy a host of activities here.
We ended up at Beau Vallon after a misadventure that included walking for an hour to Eden Island, only to find out it was a private residence. By the time we reached Beau Vallon, we were hot, bothered, and ready for a break—and this beach delivered. We spent hours swimming, snacking, and soaking in the tropical ambiance. A word of caution: taxis aren’t easy to find here, so plan your transport ahead of time.
Anse Intendance: Wild and Dramatic
If you’re chasing adventure and natural beauty, Anse Intendance is the beach for you. Its powerful waves and untouched, rugged coastline make it ideal for surfers and photographers. Swimming can be risky here due to the strong currents, but it’s perfect for a stroll along the shore or just admiring the raw beauty of the Indian Ocean.
Anse Royale: Best for Snorkeling
On the southeast coast lies Anse Royale, a haven for snorkelers. The coral reefs close to the shore are teeming with marine life, making it easy to spot colorful fish and even sea turtles. The beach itself is calm and family-friendly, with shallow waters perfect for wading and swimming.
This beach is especially charming in the late afternoon when the sun casts a golden glow over the ocean. Nearby, you’ll find small shops and food stalls, so it’s easy to grab a quick bite or stock up on snacks for the day.
Sunset Beach: Small and Romantic
True to its name, Sunset Beach is best visited in the late afternoon when the setting sun paints the sky in hues of orange and pink. Tucked away on the northwest coast, this small, secluded beach offers a romantic escape from the more crowded spots on the island
While the beach is smaller than others, its charm lies in its intimacy. It’s an ideal spot for couples or anyone looking to escape the crowds and enjoy a peaceful moment by the sea.
Grand Anse: Rugged Beauty
Grand Anse is a wild, untamed beach on Mahe’s west coast. With its powerful waves and endless stretches of sand, it’s less suited for swimming but perfect for long walks and dramatic photos.
It’s not the place for a casual dip, but it’s absolutely worth visiting for its raw beauty and the chance to feel like you’ve discovered your own slice of paradise.
For diving enthusiasts, Mahe has several dive centers offering trips to nearby reefs and wrecks.
Savoring Mahe: A Taste of Island Life
When it comes to food, Mahe serves up more than just meals—it offers experiences that linger like the ocean breeze. Here are some of the local places we ate at:
La Dolce Vita: Sweet Retreat
After hours of soaking up the sun, we stumbled upon La Dolce Vita, a small, unassuming spot that turned out to be a little slice of heaven. Their smoothies were refreshing, the gelato was creamy perfection, and the cakes were an indulgent delight. Whether you’re in the mood for something light or a decadent treat, this spot has you covered. It’s charming, quaint, local and unpretentious. There’s something about sitting in a cozy corner, sharing a cold treat, and watching the world go by that adds a quiet magic to the day.
Kapatya Restaurant: Worth Every Rupee
Dining at Kapatya Restaurant wasn’t just a meal; it was an indulgence. We hesitated at the price tag, but it was our last day in the Seychelles and it turned out to be worth the splurge. Hearty, perfectly seasoned dishes had us savoring every bite. We left with happy bellies and zero regrets.
Beau Vallon Beach: Street Food Magic
Beau Vallon was a feast for all the senses. On one side, chic beachside restaurants; on the other, a lively strip of market vendors offering street food that whispered, “Try me.” We couldn’t resist Leo’s Food Bus, where we grabbed calamari and a burger. We took our plates straight to the beach, sinking our toes into the sand as the sky melted into a symphony of sunset hues. It’s a memory we’ve replayed countless times—simple food, incredible taste, and a view that felt like a scene from a romance movie.
Pro Tip: Don’t let appearances fool you—some of the best meals on Mahe are served from humble stalls and food trucks. Just dive in and thank yourself later.
Copolia Trail
For adventurous souls, this moderate hike offers spectacular views of the island. The trail winds through lush forest, ending with panoramic vistas of the coastline and neighboring islands. It’s a rewarding way to experience Mahe’s natural beauty.
Takamaka Rum Distillery
During our time on Mahe, we drove past the Takamaka Rum Distillery, a quaint spot that caught our attention. Although we didn’t stop for a tasting, the exterior was charming, inviting, and perfect for an afternoon visit. If we remember correctly, visiting the distillery itself is free, and you only pay for tastings. If this is your vibe, be sure to add it to your itinerary.
Exploring Without Tours
There are plenty of things to do in the Seychelles, and a tour to accompany each of them. On our first day there, we inquired about some tours, and half-day tours started from around $250 with a private guide. The price would increase depending on the sights you wanted to see. We didn’t do any tours on this trip, choosing instead to self-explore at our own pace, which turned out to be perfect.
For the first two days, we didn’t have a car but spent time visiting nearby attractions. During the last two days, we hired a car to drive around the entire island. Many places labeled as “must-sees” felt like tourist traps. Our favorite spots were often the less popular ones, where we could soak up the sunshine and raw beauty.
Places You Can Skip and Still Have the Best Time
Embarking on what we thought would be a leisurely stroll to Eden Island turned into an unexpectedly challenging adventure. Deceived by maps, we confidently set off from our guesthouse, believing the destination was a short walk away. The reality? A grueling hour+ long trek under the relentless tropical sun. Only to discover that much of Eden Island is private and inaccessible to non-residents. Hot, tired, and annoyed, we admitted defeat and hailed a taxi to Beau Vallon Beach instead. It was a humbling reminder to double-check accessibility and not underestimate the tropical heat. While the day didn’t go as planned, it gave us a story to laugh about later, and a newfound appreciation for well-researched itineraries.
Transport Tips
Renting a Car
This is essential if you want to explore freely. We initially relied on taxis, which cost us $200 in a single day. Renting a car not only saved us money but also gave us the flexibility to visit remote spots.
Using Taxis
If you must use taxis, confirm prices and destinations beforehand to avoid confusion. Always double-check pickup arrangements to prevent mishaps—trust us, we learned this the hard way!
One evening, after spending hours enjoying the calm waters and lively vibes of Beau Vallon Beach, we grabbed a bite to eat and completely lost track of time. By the time we looked up, it was 8:30 PM, and we realized we needed to get back to our hotel. That’s when we discovered that taxis in Seychelles don’t operate the way we’re used to. There were no taxis waiting to be hailed, and private taxis had to be called.
We contacted our guesthouse’s private taxi service, which cost around $50 for even short trips. The hotel manager assured us the driver would arrive in 15–20 minutes, so we kept a lookout. About 20 minutes later, a taxi pulled up, and we walked over, asked the driver if he was from Blue Hill Hotel, and he said yes. Satisfied, we hopped in.
Some time into the drive, we started noticing something strange. The surroundings didn’t look familiar, and we were driving for far too long. Anton checked Google Maps, and sure enough, we were heading away from the hotel. Panic started to set in, and when the hotel manager called asking where we were, we genuinely thought we were being kidnapped.
We confronted the driver, who looked just as confused as we were. It turned out he was from a different hotel with a name similar to ours and had misunderstood us when we asked if he was from Blue Hill. Thankfully, he turned around and took us back to our hotel. Crisis averted, but we still laugh (nervously) about how we ended up in the wrong taxi and turned a short trip into an accidental adventure.
Practical Tips for Travelers
Early Closures
Many restaurants and attractions close early. Plan your days to make the most of daylight hours.
Stocking Up
Local grocery stores are great for snacks and drinks, helping you save on dining out. Also when we say local grocery stores, we’re referring to the little corner store that probably looks uninviting to enter. Just go in, your budget will thank you.
Final Thoughts
Among the three popular islands we explore in this Seychelles series, Mahe stands out as the most affordable in, terms of accommodation and food. It combines the energy of local life with the tranquility of pristine beaches. It’s the perfect starting point for a Seychelles adventure. Whether you’re hiking trails, exploring Victoria, or relaxing on beaches, Mahe offers an unforgettable introduction to the archipelago.
In Part 3 of our Seychelles series, we’ll guide you through Praslin Island, our favourite one of them all.
Until our next post, keep #roamingwiththekolbes
With love and appreciation,
The Kolbes
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